Electronic edition of Wind turbine plans


My Wind Turbine Recipe Book is now available in electronic form on Amazon Kindle. As yet, this is only the metric edition but if the project is successful I will also adapt the ‘English units’ (inches) edition for Kindle too.

Meantime if you want hard copy then you can still get it in either metric or inches units from me by post using Paypal. Orders are dealt with immediately and should reach you anywhere in the world in under a week (often less, but we cannot guarantee any timing).

The Amazon Kindle price is dramatically cheap at least to begin with, because I want to make this available to as many people as possible. I am hoping for a lot of sales but if these do not materialise then I will probably increase the price later, to try to make my efforts more worthwhile.

Posted in Books | 2 Comments

Chris Olsen writes on rust prevention

“Hi Hugh,

“I remembered just now about a post you made in one of those threads on Fieldlines where you are investigating ways to prevent magnet corrosion.

“I have been painting my rotors with a product called Rust Master Primer that I get from Kimball Midwest here in the US. This product has acetone in it. When the rotors are still raw steel with the pins installed (for the magnets) I paint the rotors with it and leave them set for 48 hours. The product converts any oxidized steel to a very hard, black polymeric coating. The product is clear when it goes on but if you wait for 24 hours the rotors start turning black as it converts oxidation in the steel.

“After treating them with this stuff they can be left out in the weather permanently, unpainted, and they will not rust.

“I then glue the magnets over the pins with epoxy (JB Weld) making sure to use enough so that the entire underside of the magnet is covered and sealed all around the edges. After the JB Weld sets I paint the magnets with Rust Master and leave them set for 48 hours. I then prime and paint them. I do not pot the magnets in resin or any such thing, which really serves no purpose in my thinking.

“The key is to prevent magnet to steel contact and then seal everything in the polymeric coating before painting it. I have been using this stuff for over 20 years on semi trailers that run in the winter time in high amounts of road salt. Once you treat the underside of a semi trailer with it, it will never rust again.

“Disclaimer: Rust Master or POR-15 is a VERY toxic material. It instantly bonds to moisture, dehydrates it and seals with the coating. If you get even a tiny amount of overspray in your lungs while applying it, it will instantly bond to the moisture in your lungs, seal them, and you will never breathe again using that pair of lungs. Same goes for your eyes. It has to be applied while wearing an organic particulate filtered full face respirator with an external air supply, and if done inside a building in an approved paint booth with organic particulate filtered exhaust fans. If you get the stuff on the floor or walls, you will never get it off – you can burn it with an oxyacetylene torch and cannot remove it from cement.

“20 years ago when I first started using it I painted the underside of a semi trailer with it and let it set up for 48 hours. Nothing on that trailer would move. It took us 5 hours alone, with air chisels and air powered rotary files, to get the landing gear freed up so it could be cranked up and down. We never did get the hopper gates freed on it. We had to grind the bolts off and replace the gates with new. Just to give you an idea of how tough the stuff is after it cures. Space age chemical treatments are amazing things – but you’d damned well better read the directions before applying them.

“The stuff is sold around the world and is made by this company:
http://www.por15.com/whatispor15.asp

“Chris Olson
Barron, WI”


Chris Olsen’s gallery is here

Thanks, Chris! For now I will continue using galvanized disks (my latest tactic), and embedding the magnets in resin, since the resin casting is something I know works well to retain the magnets and protect them from accidental damage. I hope that others find Chris’s Rust Master system useful.

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Nicely welded frame and tail

Michael Jones in Ireland sent me these pictures of his wind turbine.



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Answering some questions about rooftop wind

My answers to some questions:

(1) We’re looking at some of the design problems of rooftop turbines, and we had an expert installer tell us that in a best-case scenario, a rooftop turbine can generate 18 to 33 percent of a household’s power. Is that an accurate assessment?

It’s a very vague promise. The best case would be a house on a bare hilltop with nothing around it. A realistic case would be dramatically less productive. For real examples see this study
http://www.warwickwindtrials.org.uk/resources/Warwick+Wind+Trials+Final+Report+.pdf

(2) Is it true that a rooftop turbine generally creates 2 to 3 times as much noise as a tower turbine? And, if so, what can be done about this?

All wind turbines produce some noise and vibration. The amount varies, but whatever level of noise and vibration is produced, the associated problems will be much worse if it is connected with a building. Only a very massive concrete building can absorb this noise and most buildings will transmit it. The occupants will be subjected to this noise. The building may be damaged by the vibration in some cases.

(3) An installer told us that a tower turbine generally requires a consistent 10 mph wind to work. Is that true?

Most properly designed turbines are optimised for the range 3 – 12 m/s in which most of the energy will be produced. (that would be 7 – 25 mph in layman’s terms). Below 7 mph (3 m/s) the density of power is extremely low, so one would need a very large turbine working for a very long time to produce useful amounts of energy.

And by “work” do they mean to generate their maximum power capacity, or to generate power at all?

Most small wind turbines will start to produce at 6, 7 or 8 mph (around 3 m/s) but obviously the power has to start from zero. Maximum output is achieved at 20 – 30 mphs (9 -14 m/s) depending on the make but such winds are relatively rare so they do not contribute a lot to the overall energy production.

Are there any tests that indicate that tower turbines ever hit their maximum capacities?

Of course a wind turbine on a good site will hit its maximum. But the more important thing is the average power it can produce, which can also be expressed as the energy produced over the year. This basically depends on the swept area of the rotor and on the windspeed ‘regime’ that it is exposed to. Rooftop turbines are usually rather small and cannot access good winds, so they are incapable of producing the best results in terms of energy per year.

(4) What good do you think will come out of the Small Wind Certification Council’s certification program for power, sound emission and durability? Will the SWCC truly act in the consumer’s behalf, or will they accede to manufacturer demands? Will we see less models, better models?

Independent testing of wind turbines is long overdue. I hope that it will not impose overly onerous burdens on small wind manufacturers, but it can only be a good thing to obtain independent test results for performance, noise and safety. I hope we will see plenty of models and that we will also get past the hype and learn what they can do for us.

(5) I heard that WindTronics will be releasing a turbine this fall that generates power in winds as low as 2 mph. Have you seen it, and does it work?

while it is possible to generate power in such low winds, the amount of energy will be relatively pathetic. The laws of physics determine the maximum power available per unit of size in a turbine and a very small turbine with very little wind can only produce a negligible amount of energy.

Is it a big step forward in rooftop turbine designs, or is there still much to be done to make sure these things work?

I would rather describe such products as a big step backwards (a disaster even) as they will encourage unrealistic expectations in the consumer, who will later decide that wind energy is a waste of time and money, based on one bad experience.

Two follow-up questions:

* Is it accurate to say that unless your home fits the (location, wind and zoning) requirements for successful wind generation, that a residential wind turbine (tower or rooftop) won’t pay for itself completely in its average 20-year lifespan?

Yes, I would say that it is unlikely that a rooftop wind turbine will pay for itself unless the site if unusually windy, and the property is very open to the wind.

* According to National Renewable Energy Laboratory, a 1.5-kW rooftop wind turbine will meet the needs of a home that requires 300 kWh per month in a location that has an annual average wind speed of 14 mph. ————Are any of those numbers reasonable?

The numbers might add up, yes, provided you can find a house with that sort of wind at rooftop level. I have to say that such houses are very unusual indeed! And the turbine would need to have a diameter of at about ten feet.

Is a 1.5-kW turbine an average size,

The power rating doesn’t really tell you anything about the size, so it is not a good description for a wind turbine. A better description would be the rotor diameter.

and a is a 300 kWh monthly requirement typical for a family?

Yes in The UK that would be sufficient for a very small, energy efficient family. It’s a little less than a typical North American family.

Moreover, I found a chart that says that only 5 of 275 American communities averages an annual wind speed of 14 mph. So how can that “14” number be used as a realistic benchmark?

I don’t think that anyone could claim that it’s a realistic benchmark, no.

===

See the full article in Consumers Digest

Posted in Rooftop madness | 2 Comments

Treadle Powered Computer

Thanks to Jean-Paul Tarit for these pictures of his treadle powered computer.

Posted in People | 2 Comments

Real world data

Here is a site with some real world kWh per month as generated by Eoltec, Proven and Bergey machines in the UK. Data uploaded by users.

http://www.renew-reuse-recycle.com/
Direct link to spreadsheet

Posted in UK small wind scene | Leave a comment

Courses in England and nearby

Some course dates in England for imminent courses that I will not be teaching but they are based on my design:

V3 are doing the following:

Introduction to Building a Wind Turbine -Weekend Course
16th – 18th July, Workhouse, Wales

How to Build a Wind Turbine – 5 Day Course
26th – 30th July, Nottingham

transitioncambridge are doing

Friday 9 – Sunday 11 July 2010 (3 full days), 9am to 7pm (some nights may be later); finishing by 5pm on Sunday At Cambridge GreenTech Workshop, Harvest Way, Cambridge

£150 (bookings before 25 June); £180 (bookings after 25 June).

My own next course that I will be teaching is at CAT in Wales

29th August – 3rd September 2010

This will be my last course in the UK this year,

but I am also doing one in Ireland

13-18 September Ballinamore Co Leitrim with Eirbyte

A full calendar of my courses is here including several in the USA.

Posted in Notices, UK small wind scene | Leave a comment

Blade hub question

Hercule writes:

Hello I’m trying to sketch in CAD the blades for a 3m turbine using your 2009 metric recipe book (I’m enjoying the read so far). For some reason I am getting an overlap of 76mm (see image attached). Have I misinterpreted your instructions (Metric Guide – Page 16) or is this intentional? Thanks
hi Hercule,

It is not important whether there is an overlap or not. It depends on the width of the wood and in some cases the edges of the blades will meet each other but there is no advantage to that and it makes no difference. I suggest that you use the widest wood that you have but at least as wide as the minimum size quoted in the manual. So there is no ‘right answer’ for the width of the wood and sometimes the overlap will be large and other times there will be none.

I hope this helps.

Hugh

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Galvanised disks

I have just received a batch of galvanized disks for making magnet rotors.
Some ten 300 mm diameters and a pair of 660 mm for my big windmill.
No more rusty magnet rotors!
It cost me 64 pence per kg, which comes to about £3 per small disk (about $5).
Transport was a bit more expensive going via the galvanizers,
but I think it will be worth it.

Cost per disk:
cutting £10
galvanizing £3
transport (in total) £7
Total was £20 per galvanized disk delivered to me in a batch.

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Bike pedal power project at school

Here is a nice video from Delaware about a bike using the axial flux alternator for a school class project.

Posted in pedal power, People | Leave a comment